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Starting at $5.95, AutoBuffy stocks 4 engine crankshaft seals from Timken, SKF, and Elring for the Volvo 240. A crankshaft seal prevents oil from leaking out where the crankshaft exits the engine block — front and rear. When it fails, oil escapes onto belts, the clutch, or the ground, leading to low oil levels, belt slippage, and serious engine damage if ignored.
Crankshaft seals come in two positions — front and rear — and you must confirm which one is leaking before ordering. Beyond position, the key decision is seal material and whether to choose an OE-equivalent lip seal or an upgrade to a PTFE/polytetrafluoroethylene design, which lasts longer and tolerates a worn crankshaft snout better.
| Option | Best for | What you get |
|---|---|---|
| OE-Equivalent Front Seal (rubber lip) | Standard replacement on a well-maintained engine with minimal crankshaft snout wear | Direct factory-spec fit, correct lip geometry, straightforward installation — reliable choice when the sealing surface is in good condition |
| OE-Equivalent Rear Main Seal (rubber lip) | Standard rear seal replacement where clutch or rear oil pan contamination is the symptom | Full circumference sealing against the rear crankshaft flange; available as a one-piece or two-piece design depending on engine architecture |
| PTFE Upgrade Seal (front or rear) | Higher-mileage engines or those with minor crankshaft snout scoring or wear grooves | Harder, lower-friction PTFE material seats in a slightly different contact path to avoid worn grooves; longer service life than conventional rubber |
| Rear Main Seal Repair Sleeve Kit | Severely scored or grooved crankshaft sealing surface that would cause a new lip seal to fail quickly | Includes a thin stainless sleeve pressed over the worn crankshaft surface plus a matching new seal, restoring a clean sealing surface without machining |
Front seal replacement involves removing the crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer with a proper puller, pressing out the old seal, and driving the new one in flush and square with a correctly sized seal driver — never hammer directly on the seal face. The rear main seal on most vehicles requires dropping the transmission to expose the flywheel and rear seal housing, making it a job many owners leave to a shop. In both cases, lightly lubricating the new seal lip with clean engine oil before installation prevents tearing the lip during fitment.