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Ford Custom 500 Universal Joints
Ford Custom 500 Universal joints
Universal joints for the Ford Custom 500 start at $10.95, and AutoBuffy stocks 18 options from MOOG, ACDelco, and URO. A u-joint is the cross-shaped coupling that lets your driveshaft transmit torque through changing angles as the suspension moves. When one fails, drivetrain vibration and clunking follow quickly — and a seized u-joint can destroy the driveshaft or yoke.
Signs your Ford Custom 500 needs a new universal joint
- A metallic clunk or thud when shifting from Park into Drive or Reverse
- Rhythmic vibration felt in the floor or seat that increases with vehicle speed
- Squeaking or chirping noise at low speeds that goes away after warming up
- Visible rust, dried grease, or a cracked rubber seal around the u-joint caps
- Shuddering or shaking during acceleration, especially from a stop
- Driveshaft wobble visible under the vehicle while a helper slowly moves it
Which universal joint should you buy for your Ford Custom 500?
The most important decisions are whether to choose a greaseable or sealed joint and whether to match OEM dimensions exactly. Position on the driveshaft — front slip-yoke end versus rear differential end — can also affect the size and series rating you need.
OEM-Replacement Sealed U-Joint
Best for
Daily drivers seeking a direct fit and zero maintenance
What you get
Pre-lubricated, capped needles; install and forget; may have shorter service life in harsh conditions
Greaseable U-Joint (Zerk Fitting)
Best for
Trucks, tow vehicles, or off-road Ford Custom 500 owners who service their own chassis
What you get
Grease fitting allows periodic lubrication; longer lifespan when maintained; ideal for high-load or muddy use
Heavy-Duty / High-Misalignment U-Joint
Best for
Ford Custom 500 builds with a lift kit, suspension lift, or increased driveshaft angle
What you get
Wider needle bearing contact area; handles greater operating angles without premature wear
Complete Driveshaft Assembly with U-Joints
Best for
Ford Custom 500 with a worn or bent driveshaft or when both joints and the tube need replacement
What you get
Balanced, ready-to-install unit; eliminates guesswork on individual joint sizing; higher upfront cost
| Option | Best for | What you get |
|---|---|---|
| OEM-Replacement Sealed U-Joint | Daily drivers seeking a direct fit and zero maintenance | Pre-lubricated, capped needles; install and forget; may have shorter service life in harsh conditions |
| Greaseable U-Joint (Zerk Fitting) | Trucks, tow vehicles, or off-road Ford Custom 500 owners who service their own chassis | Grease fitting allows periodic lubrication; longer lifespan when maintained; ideal for high-load or muddy use |
| Heavy-Duty / High-Misalignment U-Joint | Ford Custom 500 builds with a lift kit, suspension lift, or increased driveshaft angle | Wider needle bearing contact area; handles greater operating angles without premature wear |
| Complete Driveshaft Assembly with U-Joints | Ford Custom 500 with a worn or bent driveshaft or when both joints and the tube need replacement | Balanced, ready-to-install unit; eliminates guesswork on individual joint sizing; higher upfront cost |
Universal joints brands we stock for your Ford Custom 500
MOOG
13 options · from $14.95
ACDelco
4 options · from $50.95
URO
1 option · from $10.95
Replacing universal joints on a Ford Custom 500
Moderate⏱ 1–2 hoursU-joint press tool or bench vise with large socketsSnap ring pliersHammer and punchTorque wrenchWire brush and penetrating oil
Replacing a u-joint on the Ford Custom 500 involves removing the driveshaft, pressing out the old bearing caps using a vise or dedicated press tool, and driving in the new caps until the snap rings seat fully in their grooves. Mark the driveshaft-to-yoke orientation before removal so it goes back in the same clocking and does not introduce a new imbalance. If the Ford Custom 500 uses a strap-and-bolt style retainer rather than snap rings, torque the retaining hardware to the manufacturer's specification found in the service manual.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to replace universal joints on a Ford Custom 500?
Parts alone start at $10.95 for a single u-joint on the Ford Custom 500. A shop will typically charge one to two hours of labor on top of the part cost. Replacing both front and rear joints at the same time is common practice and saves a second labor charge if one is already showing wear.
Can I drive my Ford Custom 500 with a bad u-joint?
You should not. A worn u-joint on the Ford Custom 500 will worsen rapidly under load. At the point of failure, the driveshaft can drop onto the road at speed or punch through the floor — both are serious safety hazards. If you hear clunking or feel unusual vibration, limit driving and replace the joint promptly.
How long do universal joints last on a Ford Custom 500?
On a typical Ford Custom 500 used for normal road driving, u-joints generally last somewhere between 75,000 and 150,000 miles. Towing, off-road use, lifted suspensions with steeper driveshaft angles, and lack of lubrication on greaseable joints all shorten that range considerably.
Do I need to replace all u-joints at once on my Ford Custom 500?
It is not mandatory, but it is strongly recommended. If one u-joint on the Ford Custom 500 has failed from age or mileage, the others have endured the same conditions. Replacing them as a set during a single service visit avoids a repeat labor charge shortly after and ensures balanced drivetrain wear.
What is the difference between a 1310, 1330, and 1350 series u-joint for the Ford Custom 500?
These SAE series designations indicate the cap diameter and overall width of the u-joint. Larger numbers mean a physically larger, heavier-duty joint. The correct series for your Ford Custom 500 depends on the factory driveshaft spec; mixing series is not interchangeable. Check the OEM part number or measure the existing joint before ordering.
Can I replace a u-joint myself on a Ford Custom 500?
Most mechanically confident owners can replace a u-joint on the Ford Custom 500 at home. The job requires pressing out and reinstalling the bearing caps, which demands either a u-joint press tool or a bench vise with appropriately sized sockets. Difficulty increases if the yoke ears are worn or corroded, which may require yoke replacement.