Are the 2007–2011 and 2012–2016 CR-V control arms interchangeable?

No. These are two distinct generations with different suspension geometry and part numbers. The 2007–2011 CR-V uses OEM references K620500 (driver) and K620501 (passenger) for the front lower arm. The 2015–2016 CR-V uses entirely different numbers — 51360T1WA55 (driver) and 51350T1WA55/51350T1WA53 (passenger). Always confirm your exact model year before ordering.

Does the Honda CR-V front lower control arm include the ball joint?

Yes, on the 2007–2011 CR-V the front lower control arm assembly includes an integrated ball joint. This is important because you can't just replace the ball joint separately — the whole arm typically needs to be replaced when the ball joint wears out.

How much does it cost to replace a Honda CR-V control arm?

Parts alone for a front lower control arm typically run $80–$200 per side for quality aftermarket units. Labor at a shop generally adds $100–$200 per arm depending on your region. A full front suspension kit covering both arms plus additional components can range from roughly $400 on the low end to over $800 for a complete multi-piece kit. Use the part finder for current pricing on your specific year.

Should I replace control arms in pairs on my CR-V?

It's generally good practice, yes. If one side is worn, the other has the same mileage and similar stress. Replacing both at the same time saves on labor (you're already in there) and keeps handling balanced. At minimum, have the other side inspected whenever you're doing one arm.

Do I need an alignment after replacing CR-V control arms?

Absolutely. Replacing a control arm changes your suspension geometry. Skipping the alignment will cause premature tire wear and the vehicle will pull to one side. Budget $80–$150 for a four-wheel alignment after the job.

Is MOOG a good brand for Honda CR-V control arms?

MOOG has a long reputation in the chassis parts segment and offers complete front suspension kits for the CR-V that bundle control arms with ball joints or tie rod ends. Their kits can be a cost-effective way to refresh multiple worn components at once rather than chasing parts individually.

What is TRQ, and is it a reliable brand?

TRQ is a house brand of 1A Auto, an online auto parts retailer — it's not an independent manufacturer. That doesn't automatically make the parts bad, but it does mean quality control and warranty support depend entirely on 1A Auto's sourcing and policies. Read their warranty terms carefully before buying.

Are Dorman and MAS control arms the same thing?

Effectively, yes for many applications. Dorman acquired MAS Industries' chassis parts line, so what was once sold as MAS control arms is now part of the Dorman catalog. You may see both names referenced for the same part. Don't treat them as competing brands.

Can I replace a Honda CR-V control arm myself?

It's a DIY-friendly job for someone comfortable with suspension work — you'll need a floor jack, jack stands, basic hand tools, a ball joint press or separator, and torque wrench. The trickiest part is usually breaking loose corroded fasteners. Plan for 1.5–3 hours per side and budget for a professional alignment afterward.

Does the 2012–2016 CR-V also have rear upper control arms?

Yes. The 2012–2016 CR-V (third generation) uses a rear multi-link suspension with upper control arms in addition to the front lower arms. These are separate parts with separate fitment — always filter by your exact year and position (front/rear, upper/lower) when searching.

MaintenanceNov 10, 2026•7

Honda CR-V Control Arms (2007–2016): Front Lower and Rear Upper Guide

Everything CR-V owners need to know about front lower and rear upper control arms for 2007–2016 models — symptoms, costs, and which parts fit.

By AutoBuffy Team

The Short Answer

On 2007–2016 Honda CR-Vs, the front lower control arm (which includes an integrated ball joint on 2007–2011 models) is the most commonly replaced suspension link — and the 2007–2011 and 2012–2016 generations use completely different part numbers, so confirming your exact year before ordering is non-negotiable.

Model Year Range	Generation	Key Front Lower Arm OEM Refs	Rear Upper Arms?	Typical Aftermarket Part Cost (per side)
2007–2011	3rd Gen	K620500 (driver), K620501 (pass.)	No multi-link rear	$80–$180
2012–2014	4th Gen	Different from 2007–2011	Yes (multi-link)	$90–$200
2015–2016	4th Gen (refresh)	51360T1WA55 (driver), 51350T1WA55/53 (pass.)	Yes (multi-link)	$90–$200

Costs above are typical aftermarket market ranges. Use the part finder below for live pricing on your specific trim and year. ---

Why CR-V Control Arms Fail (and When)

Honda CR-Vs spend a lot of time in the real world — school runs, highway miles, pothole-riddled city streets. The front lower control arm takes the brunt of that. It's the pivot point that lets the wheel move up and down over bumps while keeping it correctly positioned fore and aft. When the bushings wear out or the ball joint starts to fail, the whole arm loses its precise movement. Things get sloppy fast. Most CR-V owners start noticing problems somewhere between 80,000 and 130,000 miles, though that window shrinks considerably if the vehicle has seen rough roads, a prior accident, or deferred maintenance. Cold climates that use road salt are especially brutal on control arm bushings. The symptoms worth paying attention to:

Clunking or knocking when going over speed bumps or dips — especially on cold mornings when bushings are stiff
Steering pull under braking (often dismissed as a brake problem, but the arm is frequently the culprit)
Inner edge tire wear that keeps coming back even after alignment
Vague, wandering feel at highway speeds — the car never quite tracks straight without constant small corrections

If you're seeing two or more of these at once, inspect the control arm bushings and ball joint before assuming it's the brakes or alignment. ---

2007–2011 CR-V: What You Need to Know

The third-generation CR-V uses a fairly conventional front strut suspension. The front lower control arm on this generation includes the ball joint as part of the assembly — you can't replace just the ball joint. When the ball joint wears (play, creaking, or clunking), the whole arm goes. OEM reference numbers for the front lower arm are K620500 on the driver side and K620501 on the passenger side. When shopping aftermarket, these are the numbers to cross-reference for fitment verification. The rear suspension on these years doesn't use an upper control arm in the same sense as the later generation, so rear upper arm replacement isn't typically part of the conversation for 2007–2011 owners. ---

2012–2016 CR-V: A Different Animal

Honda completely redesigned the CR-V for 2012. The front lower arm geometry changed enough that nothing from the 2007–2011 generation carries over — a detail that bites more than a few people who order by "CR-V" without specifying the year. Then Honda refreshed the 2015–2016 models again, changing the front lower arm part numbers once more. The 2015–2016 driver side uses OEM ref 51360T1WA55, and the passenger side uses 51350T1WA55 (or 51350T1WA53 on some variants). The bigger addition on the 2012–2016 CR-V is the rear multi-link suspension, which introduced rear upper control arms to the equation. These see less stress than the front lowers but do wear — particularly the rear bushings. If you're chasing a rear clunk or noticing rear tire wear issues, the upper arm is worth inspecting. ---

Which Brands Are Worth Considering? Since this isn't a one-brand situation, here's an honest breakdown of what's actually available and relevant:

MOOG

MOOG (the auto parts brand at moogparts.com — entirely separate from Moog Inc., the aerospace and defense company traded on NYSE) has been a go-to name for chassis parts for decades. For the CR-V, they offer complete front suspension kits that bundle multiple components: control arms paired with either ball joints or tie rod ends, depending on the kit configuration. These range from 8-piece to 14-piece sets depending on what your CR-V needs. Buying a kit rather than individual arms often makes sense if you're already paying for labor — a shop doing one worn arm is usually happy to install the whole kit for minimal extra time. MOOG's parts come with pre-installed ball joints and pre-greased components on most applications, which is a genuine time-saver. ### Dorman (formerly also sold as MAS)

Worth knowing: Dorman acquired MAS Industries' chassis parts line, so if you see "MAS control arm" references online, that's now part of the Dorman catalog. They're not competing brands — they're the same supply chain. Dorman parts generally offer solid fitment and are widely available, though warranty and quality can vary by specific application. Check the return policy before committing. ### TRQ

TRQ is a house brand sold through 1A Auto — it's not an independent manufacturer. The parts can be fine, but quality and support depend entirely on 1A Auto's sourcing decisions, which aren't always transparent. If you go this route, read the warranty terms carefully and make sure returns are hassle-free in case of a fitment issue. ### General Advice

My honest take: for a vehicle you plan to keep, a MOOG kit is worth the money. Their coverage for the CR-V is deep, the pre-assembled components save installation time, and the brand has decades of documented use behind it — that matters when you're trusting a part to keep a wheel attached to your car. For a high-mileage CR-V you're selling in a year, a value-tier part gets the job done. ---

What the Replacement Job Actually Involves

Replacing a front lower control arm is a job many mechanically inclined CR-V owners tackle themselves. You'll need:

Floor jack and jack stands (never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack)
Basic socket and wrench set
Torque wrench — this matters; under-torquing control arm bolts is a safety issue
Ball joint separator or press
Penetrating oil and patience for corroded fasteners

The trickiest part is usually the rear control arm bolt, which often corrodes into the subframe on vehicles in salt-belt states. Soak it the night before. Plan for 1.5–3 hours per side depending on your experience and how cooperative the old fasteners are. Always get a four-wheel alignment after replacing a control arm. This is non-negotiable. Budget $80–$150 for the alignment on top of parts and labor. Skipping it will eat through your new tires and have the car pulling to one side within weeks. ---

Quick Reference: Front vs. Rear, Upper vs. Lower

Position	2007–2011 CR-V	2012–2016 CR-V
Front Lower	✅ Wear item; includes ball joint	✅ Wear item; different geometry
Rear Upper	❌ Not applicable	✅ Present; inspect at high mileage
Rear Lower	Less commonly replaced	Inspect if pulling or uneven rear wear

Always filter parts by exact year, position, and drive side. A mismatch here is money wasted. ---

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FAQ / People Also Ask

The most common signs are clunking or banging noises over bumps, a pulling sensation while braking, uneven tire wear (especially on the inner edge), and vague or wandering steering. If the ball joint in the arm fails, you may also feel a vibration through the floor or steering wheel at highway speeds.

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